The Dead Runners Society is a worldwide online running club. DRS is notable for its unusual role in the development of both the Internet and the sport of running. Founded by Chris Conn in 1991 as an electronic mailing list, DRS pre-dates widespread use of the World Wide Web. It is an early example of a virtual community formed around a non-professional topic. Many early DRS members were computer.

Martin,My first thought would be that for a 14 year old a stock motor would be enough in a stripped down (I assume) car. My suggestion would be to get it together and running and worry about the bolt on's later.

Are you starting with a running stock engine or do you need advice on rebuilding it?If I was going to start by rebuilding the engine I would suggest a cam from Bill Stip, stipemachine.com, (920) 467-9700 and a counterweighted crank. This will give you a good lower end that you can use to add to in the future. Ask on fordbarn.com for recommendations of shops for engine work in your area.Charlie Stephens. As for parts, I prefer original stuff. Will be using a Winfield 6:1 'yellow head', 1R cam, and SR-B carb in my A-powered '27 RPU (that's a pic of the motor in my avatar).

Also using a rebuilt Model B distributor. Should have plenty of get up & go for a light car.I also understand from the folks on the Ford Barn that Snyders might be coming out with a copy of the Winfield head (in cast iron) - that may be a good option. You may want to Google Charlie Yapp/Secrets of Speed for more info on modern performance parts, and be sure to check out the monthly banger meet threads.Check out these builds for other performance-oriented A 'bangers;'s 'Dust Bowl Special' 26-27 T roadster body on an A chassis -'s '29 roadster -'s phaeton -'s pickup.

The first thing to do to a flathead engine is increase the compression, (I am assuming a good engine with good babbitt) 7:1 is considered the maximum. Thats a Lion Speed head. Points and condensors are always the problem, get Pertronix. Next up is timing the engine with a degree wheel and timing light. Thats spelled New Model B cam from Bill Stipes with single lock cam followers, stainless steel valves, a degree wheel and the timing strip applied by the front pulley after using a magnetic base dial micrometer to find dead top center.

Next up is your choice of header and carburetors. I use SUsgetting rid of Henrys horrible transmission is the nicest thing you can do for yourself. I like the fully synchronized 3 speed with overdrive and of course you need good Bendix brakes with self adjusters. Avoid the 39-48 Lockheed. I like original parts as well.

Specifically Winfield stuff.On my banger I'm running a Super Winfield 7:1 head. Winfield SU1A cam. Downdraft B winfield carb and intake. The engine is counterbalanced and has a lightened flywheel.

Distributor is a vintage aftermarket Mallory distributor and 'best' coil.If I was in your geographic location I would throw the original stuff out the window. I'd buy a New Winfield head.( they come in multiply compression ratio's. What ever cam you want. One of the single or double downdraft intakes available and a FS Ignition.

Make sure to get some brass or aluminum timing gears.Check out Red's headers,and sosI'd write more but I gotta go.thanks for the mention. Might be a good time to do an overall plan with costs. It would help with overall direction such as flathead vs overhead. I like to use an excel spreadsheet but it is definitely an overkill. It would be a good learning experience for your son.One more thought, when I go with speed equipment I like to stick with the same manufacturer for all parts, ANSEN, THOMAS etc.You should order a catalog for A&B speed equipment from vintageford.com. Of course I, like everyone else, would like the original equipment but the catalog will show what is currently available and it gives prices for planning.Charlie Stephens. I like original parts as well.

Rebuild 2 game. Specifically Winfield stuff.On my banger I'm running a Super Winfield 7:1 head. Winfield SU1A cam. Downdraft B winfield carb and intake. The engine is counterbalanced and has a lightened flywheel.

Distributor is a vintage aftermarket Mallory distributor and 'best' coil.If I was in your geographic location I would throw the original stuff out the window. I'd buy a New Winfield head.( they come in multiply compression ratio's. What ever cam you want. One of the single or double downdraft intakes available and a FS Ignition. Make sure to get some brass or aluminum timing gears.Check out Red's headers,and sosI'd write more but I gotta go.thanks for the mention. Don't worry too much about adding power right now.

These bangers are actually quite drivable and streetable in-town with not a lot done to them. Sure, they only have about 40 HP, but they have more torque than your average modern hatchback which weighs much more.When I built mine (which I'm doing for the third time now) paramount was driver's aides. A 1932-34 distributor got rid of me having to fiddle with spark advance while driving, and a downdraft intake tipped with a stromberg got rid of fuel mixture adjustments on the fly. Both will net a very nice drive when used with a properly set-up stock motor.

And these things are easily sourced here and around the net.Once you get those settled, then you can start thinking about power. When it comes to it, the two best things to do are Compression and Cam. There are lots of ways to skin those cats.Posted using my Lil' Orphan Annie Secret Society Decoder Pin.